How to make pickled gherkins

If you're a fan of gherkins, you can easily learn to make your own pickled version. These are the tiny pickles that are served with pâtés and terrines.

Makes about 3 litres (6 pints)

• 10 dozen French gherkins or tiny pickling cucumbers, well scrubbed
• 350 g (1 1/2 c) pickling or kosher salt
• 30 peppercorns, white, green, or multicoloured
• 6 small bay leaves
• 18 sprigs fresh tarragon
• 1-1.5 L (4-6 c) white wine vinegar
• 1-1.1 L (4 1/2 c) sugar
• 15-30 ml (1-2 tbsp) pickling or kosher salt, to taste

1. In a large, nonreactive bowl, place the gherkins or cucumbers and sprinkle with salt. Loosely cover and let stand 24 hours.

2. Drain the pickles and discard the brine. Pack the pickles, standing on end, into six sterilized 500 millilitre (one pint) canning jars; leave a six millimetre (quarter-inch) space at the top of the jar. Add five peppercorns, one bay leaf, and two sprigs of tarragon to each jar.

3. Meanwhile, in a large, heavy, nonreactive saucepan or Dutch oven, combine the vinegar and sugar with the remaining six sprigs of tarragon. Over high heat, bring the mixture to a boil. Pour the mixture over the pickles in each jar to cover. Cover the jars and let them stand overnight; the pickles will lose their colour.

4. Drain and reserve the vinegar from the jars into a large, nonreactive saucepan. Stir in the salt, and over high heat, bring the mixture to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and let the brine cool. Pour the cooled brine back over the pickles in the jar, dividing it evenly; the pickles should recover their colour.

5. Wipe the rims, cover, and process for 15 minutes in the boiling water. Cool and test for airtight seals. Label, date, and store in a cool, dark place for four to six weeks. Once a jar has been opened, store the pickles in the refrigerator.

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