Véronique Rivest is the world’s second-best sommelier. So says the triennial Best Sommelier in the World competition, last held in Tokyo. Rivest holds court at Soif (French for “thirst”). She takes wine seriously, not snobbishly; you won’t be left gasping at high prices or feel stupid. Thanks to knowledgeable staff and two- or four-ounce servings, you can sample a few of her wide-ranging and somewhat idiosyncratic selections (a Canary Islands wine, perhaps?). You’ll get expert advice on what pairs well with the kitchen’s small plates, such as cobia tartare or grilled pork with pickled cherries.